Annual Veterinary Exams & Preventive Health Care for Dogs

We all know that preventing disease or catching it in its early stages is far better than treating it once it has had time to progress to a more severe stage. Preventive health care on a regular basis will help you do just that, and save you and your pet from needless suffering and a larger financial burden. This article explains what preventive measures you can take to keep your dog healthy. 

ANNUAL PHYSICAL EXAM 

Just as annual physical exams are recommended for humans, they are recommended for our pets as well. If your dog is older or has medical problems, he may need even more frequent examinations. A year is a long time in a dog's life. Assuming our pets will live to their early teens, receiving a yearly exam means they will only have about thirteen exams in a lifetime. That is not very many when you think about it. 

 During your dog's annual physical exam you should review these aspects of your dog's health with your veterinarian: 

Vaccination status Parasite control for intestinal parasites, fleas, ticks, mites, and heartworms 

Dental health – care you give at home; any mouth odors, pain, or other signs of disease you may have observed 

Nutrition – including what your dog eats, how often, what supplements and treats are given, and changes in water consumption, weight, or appetite 

Exercise – how much exercise your dog receives including how often and what kind; and any changes in your dog's ability to exercise 

Ears and Eyes – any discharge, redness, or itching Stomach and intestines – any vomiting, diarrhea, constipation, gas, belching, or abnormal stools 

Breathing – any coughing, shortness of breath, sneezing, or nasal discharge 

Behavior – any behavior problems such as barking, 'accidents,' or changes in temperament 

Feet and legs – any limping, weakness, toenail problems 

Coat and skin – any hair loss, pigment changes, lumps, itchy spots, shedding, mats, oranal sac problems 

Urogenital – any discharges, heats, changes in mammary glands, urination difficulties or changes, neutering if it has not already been performed 

Blood tests – especially for geriatric dogs, those with medical problems, and those who are receiving medications 

VACCINATIONS 

 How often? 

You may have heard about the current controversies regarding vaccinating dogs and cats. Some researchers believe we do not need to vaccinate annually for most diseases. But how often we should vaccinate for each specific disease in adult animals has not yet been determined. We do not know how long the protection from a vaccine lasts. It may be 5 years for one disease and 3 years for another, and less than 2 years for another. Almost all researchers agree that for puppies we need to continue to give at least three combination vaccinations and repeat these at one year of age. They also agree that rabies vaccinations must continue to be given according to local ordinances. Against what diseases? Experts generally agree that the core vaccines for dogs include distemper,canine adenovirus-2 (hepatitis and respiratory disease), canine parvovirus-2, and rabies. Noncore vaccines include leptospirosis, coronavirus, canine parainfluenza andBordetella bronchiseptica (both are causes of 'kennel cough'), and Borrelia burgdorferi (causes Lyme Disease). Consult with your veterinarian to select the proper vaccines for your dog or puppy. Researchers at the Veterinary Schools at the University of Minnesota, Colorado State University, and University of Wisconsin suggest alternating vaccinations in dogs from year to year. Instead of using combination vaccines (vaccines against more than one disease), they recommend using vaccines with only one component, e.g., a vaccine that only contains parvovirus. So, one year your dog would be vaccinated against distemper, the next year against canine adenovirus-2, and the third year against parvovirus. Then the cycle would repeat itself. Other researchers believe we may not have enough information to recommend only vaccinating every 3 years. As with cat vaccines, manufacturers of dog vaccines have not changed their labeling which recommends annual vaccinations. Again, each dog owner must make an informed choice of when to vaccinate, and with what. Consult with your veterinarian to help you make the decision. For more information on vaccines, see Vaccines, Vaccination, and the Immune System of Dogs. 

 HEARTWORM TESTING 

When and how often pets should be tested for heartworm infection is also a matter of debate. In making a decision on when to test, we must consider how common heartworm disease is where the pet lives, what heartworm preventive the pet is receiving, and how long the mosquito season lasts. The American Heartworm Society (AHS) advises all adult dogs being started on a heartworm preventive for the first time should be tested. In addition, all dogs should be tested annually for heartworm infection. In the past, if a dog had been on preventive methods routinely, it was not considered necessary to test every year, perhaps only every two to three years. Because of reports of animals on preventives that still contracted heartworms, the AHS recommends a more conservative testing routine. It may be too difficult to document when an animal hasn't been checked in three years, and therefore, annual testing will ensure that an infection is caught in plenty of time to effectively manage it. 

 CONTROL OF INTESTINAL PARASITES 

As with vaccinations and heartworm testing, you will find different opinions on when or if fecal examinations should be performed and when or if pets should receive regular 'dewormings.' Decisions on testing and worming should be based on circumstances such as: the age of your dog the likelihood your dog is exposed to feces from other animals whether your dog is on a heartworm preventive that also controls intestinal parasites if your dog has been previously infected if you plan to breed your female dog if there are children who play with the dog Regular deworming is recommended by the American Association of Veterinary Parasitologists (AAVP), the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), and the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC). Puppies* Initiate treatment at 2 weeks; repeat at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age, and then put on a monthly heartworm preventive that also controls intestinal parasites. Using a year-round heartworm preventive/intestinal parasite combination product decreases the risk of parasites. 

If not using such a product, worm at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age and then monthly until 6 months of age. Nursing Dams Treat at the same time as puppies. Adult Dogs If on a year-round heartworm preventive/intestinal parasite combination product, have a fecal test performed 1-2 times per year and treat appropriately. If not on a year-round heartworm preventive/intestinal parasite combination product, have a fecal test performed 2-4 times per year and treat appropriately. Also monitor and eliminate parasites in pet's environment. Newly Acquired Animals Worm immediately, after 2 weeks, and then follow above recommendations. * Drs. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies should obtain the deworming history of their new pet and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. Roundworms and hookworms of dogs can cause serious disease in people, especially children who may not have good hygiene habits. Treating your dog for worms is important for your pet's health as well as your own. Many veterinarians would agree that at a minimum, dogs should have an annual fecal examination performed. Fecal examinations are advantageous. By having a fecal examination performed, you will know if your dog has intestinal parasites. If she does, you may need to change her environment and access to other animals. You will also know what type of parasites she has so the proper medication will be selected to kill all of them. 

GERIATRIC OR 'SENIOR' SCREENING 

Many veterinarians are starting to recommend screening tests for our older pets. Just as we have our cholesterol and blood pressure checked more often as we grow older, it is suggested our older pets need some routine checks too. Diabetes mellitus, kidney disease, and some hormonal diseases occur much more frequently in older animals. To test for these conditions and identify them before severe and/or irreversible damage is done, blood tests and sometimes radiographs are helpful. An abnormal result means we can diagnose and treat the condition early. Normal results are helpful in giving us a baseline with which we can compare future results. Many of our older animals are also on medications and may require tests to evaluate the medication level and/or potential harmful effects on various organs. Oral health is also extremely important in our older pets, so they may require more frequent dental check-ups. If you have an older dog, discuss these options with your veterinarian. In summary, annual exams along with recommended blood screening in older animals, vaccinations, heartworm testing, and parasite control will help your dog live a happier and longer life.

SOURCE: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2116&aid=229

Reasons To Act More Like Your Pet

Pets aren’t always easy to take care of, and they often require a substantial time commitment (something you’re all too aware of at, say, 3 a.m., when Bing Clawsby is finally ready to go outside and do his business). But pets provide an amazing return on that time investment, especially when it comes to your health. Case in point: According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, pet owners tend to have lower blood pressure, cholesterol, and triglyceride levels than non-pet owners. But that’s not all. Pets also model many surprisingly healthy behaviors that humans would do well to emulate. Here are just a few, according to veterinarians, dog trainers, and other pet experts. 

1. They focus on what matters most. You may get grumpy after a bad day at the office, but your pooch never does. “Companion animals mostly care about food, love, and shelter (not always in that order). As long as they have those things, they don’t need much else,” Mary Gardner, DVM, a veterinarian and cofounder of Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice tells Yahoo Health. “Pets also don’t complain much at all. People believe they hide their pain; I simply think they manage it differently.” If humans could model these behaviors, Gardner adds, we’d be healthier, happier, “and more people would want to be around us.” 

2. They practice portion control (even if not by choice). Snowball might not want to limit her kibble intake any more than you want to limit your tortilla-chip intake. Nonetheless, she typically eats reasonably sized helpings of nutritionally balanced food — and never gets to eat straight out of the bag. Follow her lead. “Both animals and people need structure and regulation when it comes to portion size,” says Jme Thomas, executive director of Motley Zoo Animal Rescue based in Redmond, Washington. 

3. They know how to de-stress. Your pooch doesn’t pour a glass of cabernet when the going gets rough (though, yes, it would make a very popular YouTube video if she did). She may, however, start begging for a walk or to play a game. Smart dog! “Actively seeking healthy activities — that function as de-stressors when stress levels are high — helps to reset people as well as dogs, and bring us back to a productive and functional status, from which many things feel a lot more ‘do-able,’” Marisa Scully, a certified dog behavior specialist in Philadelphia, tells Yahoo Health. 

4. They hit the hay. People don’t get enough sleep: According to a 2014 survey by the National Sleep Foundation, 45 percent of Americans said that a lack of sleep had impaired their activities at least once in the previous week. Learn from your cat or dog, who knows just how important it is to get enough shut-eye, says Jeff Werber, VVM, president and chief veterinarian of Century Veterinary Group in Los Angeles. “Whether it’s a lazy dog day afternoon, or a quick cat nap, you won’t find them burning the candles at both ends.” 

5. They stretch! There’s a reason one of the most common yoga moves is named downward dog. Dogs (and cats) stretch constantly — and we should do the same, notes certified dog behavior consultant Russell Hartstein. Why? Stretching can improve flexibility and reduce your risk of injury. 

6. They’re open to new things. Animals are naturally curious. “Open a box or empty a bag and before you know it, your cat will have climbed in to investigate. Walk your dog past a gardener planting flowers and chances are she will check it out before moving on,” Werber says. “And they’re always up for some fun. A game of catch, a walk, a visit — bring it on.” Since research has found that seeking out new experiences can keep people feeling young and healthy, we’d do well to follow suit.

7. They’re comfortable getting zen. Numerous studies have found a correlation between mindful meditation and reduced stress, decreased heart disease, and a stronger immune response — and that’s something your cat already knows how to do instinctively. “Each morning I sit on the sofa with my cat, Turtle, while I drink my first cup of coffee,” says Kristen Levine, a pet living expert. “We spend about 10 minutes together, her getting neck and head rubs, me enjoying her purring and having a few meditative moments at the start of the day.It sounds simple, and it can be, but depending on the activity, it can have a powerfully relaxing or invigorating effect for both human and critter.” 

Source: https://www.yahoo.com/health/7-health-lessons-our-pets-teach-us-112252958927.html

Why Dogs Bark and Growl

Does your dog growl or bark when a stranger approaches your house or when something goes bump in the night? If so, you’re not alone.

Most dogs will vocalize when they are exposed to new or different situations, including strange people or animals entering their territory; being separated from their pack, mother or even your family members; or new or alarming sounds. Dogs may also bark or growl when they see prey, such as squirrels, and they may bark for attention, food or if they are anxious. Dogs often growl when they are fearful or trying to assert themselves in a situation. If the dog’s fear or assertiveness is alleviated by growling or barking, the dog will learn that his behavior is acceptable and the behavior may become more frequent or severe. Some medical problems may cause growling or barking and older pets experiencing senile changes may have barking problems. Intense and continuous barking may be considered compulsive. Check with your veterinarian to evaluate your pet’s barking or growling problem. Behavior training and drug therapy may be helpful in reducing barking for pets with medical, geriatric and compulsive disorders.

Socializing your puppy can help

Acclimate your puppy to a variety of different people, environments, situations and noises to help lessen anxiety as your puppy grows. Make sure your puppy spends time alone so that he doesn’t develop separation anxiety while you are away from him. Proper training is essential to preventing behavior problems, such as growling and barking. Ask you veterinarian for more information about puppy training. 

Correcting a barking or growling problem

Correcting a barking or growling problem first requires that you have effective management of your dog. Once you have achieved this, you can begin to train your dog to lessen his barking or growling behavior by using rewards for quiet behavior. The reward should be something that the dog really likes such as a favorite treat, tummy rubs, or a favorite toy. Punishment is generally ineffective in correcting barking problems. Too much punishment may even exacerbate the behavior and cause the dog to be fearful or aggressive.

Begin your training with situations that you can easily control (such as a family member making a noise that causes the dog to bark) before moving on to difficult situations (such as a strange animal in your yard). When your dog barks at the stimuli (for instance, a doorbell ring), immediately interrupt the barking. When the dog is quiet offer the dog a reward for their behavior. Without the reward there is no incentive to remain quiet.Reward your dog when, at your request, he has stopped barking. Only reward the dog when he is quiet and gradually increase the amount of time that the dog needs to be quiet for him to receive a reward.

As the barking or growling problem decreases, make sure to direct your dog to more appropriate behavior, such as play, and the problem should lessen over time. Don't forget to discuss training options with your veterinarian to find the one that will work best for your pet.

Source: http://www.aaha.org/pet_owner/pet_health_library/dog_care/behavior/barking_and_growling.aspx

Feeding your pet...how much and more

Pets, like people, don't magically maintain an optimum body weight. 

For pets, as for people, body weight is a function of calories in and calories out.

Calculating calories in is a no problem as there are many charts available, both in print and on the internet, to help with conversions. Any reasonable comercial pet food should list the caloric value per kg, or gm, of food on the product information label.

Calories out is more difficult to calculate as it varies with the life stage, activity and health of your pet. Fortunately there are some formulas that help to give us guidelines to follow.

The Resting Energy Requirement (RER) in Kcal/day is the starting point 

RER = 30x(wt in kg) + 70       or       RER= 30x(wt in lbs/2.205) + 70  as     wt in lbs/2.205 = wt in kg

EXAMPLE: RER for a 10kg dog    30x10+70=370   or   30(22.05/2.205)+70=370 Kcal/day
               
However this calculation does not account for age, activity, or health. To estimate for these factors standard multipliers are used for various scenarios as follows:



Multipliers for age, activity, and health:

Weight loss                                 0.8-1.0 x RER
Neutered adult normal activity   1.6 x RER
Intact adult normal activity         1.8 x RER
Light work                                 2.0 x RER
Moderate work                           3.0 x RER
Heavy work                               4-8 x RER
Pregnant  (first 42 days)             1.8 x RER
Pregnant  (last 21 days)              3.0 x RER
Lactating female                         4-8 x RER
Juvenile - weaning to 4 months  3.0 x RER
Juvenile - 4 months to adult size 2.0 x RER



So if our 10kg dog is a neutered adult with normal casual activity  RERx1.6=592  (the total kcal requirement/day). It is very important to remember that this is the TOTAL kcal requirement including all snacks, treats and scrounging! If you feed your pet snacks and treats the Kcal/treat or snack must be factored in.

Now that we know how many Kcal to feed, how much is that in pet food quantity?

To know this one must know the number of Kcal/cup or can of food. This value should be on the bag or can of food. If it is not you may want to consider another choice! If you home cook for your pet you will have to break down your recipe into ingredients and from that calculate the Kcal/recipe batch. The number of cups per batch, and from that, the Kcal/cup.

Once you know this value, calculating how much to feed your pet is straight forward. One divides the number of Kcal/day by the Kcal/cup of food.


So, for example, if the food has 425 kcal/cup, the math would look like this:

Kcal/day divided by kcal/cup = 592Kcal/425Kcal/cup= ~1.4 cups /day or 0.7 cups/meal

**One must remember that these are simply guidelines ... a starting point if you will. It is very important to weigh your pet regularly and if they are gaining, or losing, too much weight then the amount of food and/or activity should be adjusted accordingly. If you have adjusted your pet's food intake and/or exercise and they are continuing to increase or decrease weight a veterinarian should be consulted as many medical conditions can influence metabolism (weight gain or loss).**


Other questions you may ask: 

• How long will a bag last? 
• How much does it cost to feed my pet each day?

To calculate how a long a bag will last one divides the number of cups/bag by the number of cups fed each day. If the bag contains 50 cups and you feed 1.4 cups/day the bag will last 50/1.4=35.7 days.

Some bags do not list the number of cups within. If not, for many pet foods the gm per cup is listed or readily available online. If that is the case the weight of the bag in kg or gm per cup will give the number of cups/bag. So if a food was 110gm/cup and the bag weighed 2kg there will be (2x1000)/110=10.1 cups in the bag.

How much will it cost to feed my pet per day?

One divides the price of the bag by the number of days it will last.

Thus, if you know the Kcal/bag, cups/bag, price/cup and cups/day you can calculate what it costs to feed your pet for a day!

EXAMPLE:

1. kcal/kg x kg/bag = kcal/bag                                            3570x13.6 =  48552kcal/bag

2. kcal/bag divided by kcal/cup = cups/bag                        48552/407 = 119.29c/bag

3. cups/bag divided by price/bag = price/cup                     119.29/49.49 = 2.41/cup

4. cups/day x price/cup = price/day                                    2.41x2.41 = $5.78/day

You may then ask .... is my pet a healthy weight?

For that one turns to body score indexes. Using a score of 1-5, it is optimal to have pets in the mid score range.
Viewing a body score index will help you determine if your pet would benefit from losing or gaining weight.
Once this goal is established one feeds for the desired weight, not the current weight.


Body Score Condition Index 1-5

1 = Emaciated

Ribs, lumbar vertebrae, pelvic bones and all body prominences evident from a distance. No discernible body fat. Obvious absence of muscle mass.

2 = Thin

Ribs easily palpated and may be visible with no palpable fat. Tops of lumbar vertebrae visible. Pelvic bones less prominent. Obvious waist and abdominal tuck.

3 = Moderate                                                                                    

Ribs palpable without excess fat covering. Abdomen tucked up when viewed from side.

4 = Stout

General fleshy appearance. Ribs palpable with difficulty. Noticeable fat deposits over lumbar spine and tail base. Abdominal tuck may be absent. Waist is no longer evident.

5 = Obese

Large fat deposits over chest, spine and tail base. Waist and abdominal tuck absent. Fat deposits on neck and limbs. Abdomen distended.

At WBVC we take diet and nutrition seriously. As with people, pets are what they eat. One pet food is not suitable for all pets and not all pet foods are created equal. Even when ingredients are compared, similar diets may be far from equal in their make up. Not all ingredients are sourced similarly, and not all pet foods have solid clinical research behind them! "Holistic", "all natural", and "high quality" are marketing terms that do not speak to the nutritional value of the food for your pet.

Veterinary Prescription Diets are available only from your veterinarian. These diets are thoroughly researched and contain ingredients that are carefully sourced. Manufacturers of these health products fully understand that veterinarians can make educated decisions about the use of their diets and, as such, these diets can be appropriately prescribed to optimize health benefits for each individual pet.

At WBVC, the veterinarians have created a spread sheet for Veterinary Prescription Diets that aids them in making the best nutritional choices for your pet and lets you know how much a product costs per package, how many Kcal your pet requires per day, how much to feed your pet each day, and how much that will cost you on a daily basis. This can help bring you peace of mind and can save you lots of tedious calculations!

For a Wellness Examination & Consult including dietary recommendations please book an appointment by calling WBVC at 604-266-7421.

The Earth Oven...built by people, supervised by pets!

Imagine a functional back to the Earth Oven...in your own back yard. Now imagine that oven built from scratch by your own family. You have just imagined the wonderful Earth Oven in our back yard...and you could have one too:)

Jen & Ryan have been intrigued by cob construction for years. An oven would be the perfect introductory project!

Cob building is a project for warm summer days and evenings. August 2012 had perfect weather for cob construction.

As many will know cob is a material made from clay, sand and straw... all of which we had on hand. The proportions of each vary to best suit the  structure being built.  For the oven various mixtures were tested to get the best results. The test pucks now act as decorations and paper weights throughout our house!

If you follow these instructions step by step at the end you too will have your own Earth Oven.

What will you need?

• yard space
• good weather
• clay type earth
• sharp edged sand
• straw, dog hair, sawdust
• assorted empty bottles
• water
• weed whacker
• card board cylinder forms
• premixed cement
• gravel
• 3/4" ply
• chicken wire
• staple gun
• level
• news paper
• piece of 2x4 or  equivalent
• dowl for poking holes
• fire bricks
• insulating bricks
• buckets
• wheel barrow
• shovel
• tarp
• wood scraps, metal scraps
• lime plaster
• tint for the plaster
• rubber gloves
• old clothes
• matches and wood for your fire
• time and energy plus patience!

Step by Step Oven Construction

(1)The tube molds for the concrete foundation. Fill with concrete. Let set and peel off the card board.

(2) Once the oven’s site was decided on, a 3’6” round was marked out and a ring of earth was dug out to below the frost line (~1’) and packed with chips and dust. 11, 8” cement cylinders were poured and arranged to provide the foundation for the oven base.

(3) The cob mix consisted of 1 part clay rich soil which was collected from Bukeville, Richmond (aka Burkeville Readimix) and 1 part sharp sand. Straw and dog fur (we have plenty of that on hand) were added liberally to add grip and tensile strength to the mix.

(4) The cob was mixed on a tarp by stamping. Boots were worn as the Burkeville Readimix was from an urban site and had all varieties of rusty sharps and glass mixed throughout it, even after aggressive sifting. This proved to be a great workout with sore legs the following day!

To step back a bit... the dirt and sand were mixed with straw. The straw had been put in a 30 litre garbage pail and chopped in suitable lengths with a weed whacker. Once this was done, all was mixed on the tarp and water added. The mixture was stomped. The the edges of the tarp were folded inward (kind of like kneading dough) and the mass was stomped again. This process and the addition of water was repeated until a well mixed and workable consistency was achieved.

(5) It rains a lot in Vancouver and the ground is often wet. Having a base acts as a moisture barrier plus it brings the oven to a comfortable working height. Use your imagination and make a base that pleases you. The base of this oven was built using a glass bottle/cob mosaic on top of cement posts. Bases are traditionally solid but we wanted ours to be open to serve as a heated dog house when the oven was fired.... or for those poor souls without a dog it can be used for wood storage:)

Thus so far... the ground is cleared, a circular trench is dug, gravel is put in the trench and tamped down, the cardboard forms are filled with cement creating 11 cement posts which are carefully arranged around the gravel trench with an opening left for access into the base. Once these are placed cob is build up on the cement posts. Bottles of various colours and shapes were laid amongst the cob. This gives a decorative stained glass effect to the project. It was necessary to consume a lot of different beers and beverages to get the required bottles!

(6) The wall grew quite quickly and was checked periodically with a level to ensure it was level in both the horizontal and vertical planes. The gap in the wall will eventually become the arched entranceway to the base but for now it is being left alone so that the wall proper can lock up and provide support to the soon-to-be arch. The walls were built by taking handfulls of cob, forming them into loaves and splatting them down on the previous level. Shaping and sculpting was all done my hand. Yes, you will get very dirty... but it all washes off!

(7) When the base got to the height that felt right a platform was required for the oven itself. A 4’  diameter perfect round was cut from ¾” plywood. Reclaimed chicken wire from the last summer’s fence repair was stapled liberally to the underside of the ply round and around the edge to provide a mechanism for the ply round to lock down onto the cob wall.

(8) Chicken wire was also stapled to the upper edge of the ply round. The arch is slowly taking shape below.

(9) A cob wall was built up around the edge of the ply round to provide a well in the center to enclose the insulating layer below the oven.

(10) Once the cob edge wall was finished a layer of dry sand was spread into the centre well. We have now created a cob "doughnut" with decorative bottle placement and a dry sand layer above the plywood base. The "blue beer" had great bottle colours but no one liked the beer :( This acts as insulation from the oven above.

(11) Empty beer bottles were then placed over the sand layer and were then buried in more dry sand. This provides an insulating layer that the fire bricks sit on and prevents excessive heat loss from the oven through the base.

(12) The centre of the plywood round was carefully marked out and dense fire bricks were arranged on the surface of the sand ... starting from the centre and working outward toward the periphery. Each brick was accurately levelled and pressed tightly against each of its neighbours to provide a perfectly smooth, even surface with no edges on which a pizza peel could get caught while sliding it in and out of the oven. This is the cooking surface of the oven so it must be perfectly level and smooth.

(13) Once the bricks were leveled, 4 porous insulating (non heat retaining) fire bricks were placed at the front to provide an entrance shelf into the oven. The ornament that was sculpted on the rim was not only decorative but provided a support for the front brick shelf. The shelf was locked in on the sides by little blocks of cob.

 (14) The largest possible circle was drawn in chalk on to the bricks. This circle represents in the inner area of the oven. The circle is centered to align with the center of the plywood base. The supporting blocks for the shelf are clearly visible in this photo.

(15) A layer of wet newspaper was placed over the bricks and moist sand was poured onto the paper. The paper’s function was to prevent sand from working its way between the bricks and unsettling them. Gradually more sand was added as a semi-sphere was sculpted to the size of the chalk circle. Underneath the arch continues to slowly take shape.

(16) The sand form continued to take shape. For this oven, the diameter of the sand dome, which represents the inner area of the oven, was 82cm, the height of the dome was therefore sculpted to 41cm. 

(17) Once the shape of the dome was achieved it was smoothed out using wet hands and by rocking a 2x4 board over its surface. Since this is the inner shape of the oven it was important that its shape and texture be as perfect as possible.

(18) The dome was covered in wet newspaper in preparation for cobbing. The purpose of the paper is to prevent the cob from sticking to the sand ... if that happens the inner dome will have loose sand that will fall on the food and make a mess of things.

(19) The fire cobbing begins. This layer of cob is on the inside of the oven and will be exposed to the fire inside. As such, a different blend of cob was used, known as fire cob. It consists of ~5 parts sharp sand to 1 part Burkeville Readimix without any straw or fur. It was gritty and required a fair amount of force to get a good pack.

(20) The fire cob layer grows.

(21) Once the sand dome was completely covered in fire cob, the cob was worked smooth using a 2x4 board that was rocked over the surface repeatedly to get a nice finish. The fire cob was left to set for a couple of days and then the door was cut out. The height of the door was 63% the height of the inner sand dome. This ratio has been shown to provide the optimal airflow to promote a good burn without allowing excessive heat escape. We built a thick wooden door out of scrap wood that was cut to plug the door opening tightly to trap the oven heat in once it had been fired to temperature. Some will add a chimney to the dome. For our oven these dimensions, along with a fire door, have worked well and a chimney has not been necessary.

The tarp was put up to protect from direct sun, so that the cob dried slowly and evenly. It also protects against Vancouver's rain onslaught. 

The arch continues to slowly take shape.

(22) An arch was also built around the doorway with firecob to protect the insulation layer of cob (coming up) from the flames when the oven was fired.

(23) Finally, when the firecob had firmed up sufficiently (~2 weeks) the sand was scraped out to hollow out the interior.

 (24) Once all the sand was removed, a fire was lit in the oven to speed up the drying of the fire cob and to burn off any left over newspaper from the inside.

(25) The fire cob is drying.

(26) Dry!

(27) Our first attempt at pizza. The oven got incredibly hot! It broke our oven thermometer that had a max temp of 700F! The first pizza wasn’t pretty but it was awfully delicious.

(28) Our first attempt at bread in the oven. Delicious!

(29) Getting ready to put on the insulation layer. The oven got extremely hot with the fire cob layer but it lost it’s heat quickly once the flame was removed. The insulation layer is designed to help slow the rate of the heat loss. Our mix was composed of 1 part Burkeville Readimix to 1 part sharp sand. We added a liberal amount of straw, fur, and sawdust shavings from the woodshop to create air pockets within the mix. Unlike the firecob layer which was designed to be very dense, this insulation layer was designed to be very porous to trap and keep the heat. Once this was in place the oven would still be warm the morning following a burn.

(30) The insulation layer is complete. Holes were punched into it to provide a key for the plaster layer. Ryan is firing the oven to dry out the insulation layer. He is holding our first pizza peel made from a piece of scrap metal.

(31) Another attempt at pizza. This time the oven held its heat for a good long time. When the flames were removed it kept a temperature of 350F for over 5 hours and was still warm the following morning. The arch is finally nearing completion.

 (32) The pizza is cooking and blue beer bottles are being collected for the next cob project. A pizza cooks in less than 5 minutes.

(33) Dogs, and human friends alike, love pizza nights!

 (34) We decided that our oven needed some nicer pizza peels. These ones were crafted by Jen & Ryan ....made from wood they collected from around the city a few summers ago. The one of the left is made from maple, cherry, purple heart and black walnut (left over from other projects). The handle is from a piece of yew. The one on the right is made of cherry from a family friend’s tree (it was cut down when one of their dogs got a cherry pit lodged in its lung!) and black walnut.

(35) A firing door was made out of a piece of scrap steel. The handle was carved out of a piece of lumber left over from Ben’s cat run (that is a blog in it's own right). This door made for a hotter burn and helped direct the smoke upwards, rather than out towards people gathered around the oven. The arch is now complete. If made freeform the arch is best built slowly to prevent sagging... each layer is firm before the next is added.

(36) Tidying up the arch.

 (37) Lime plaster was mixed with sand and applied to the base as a scratch coat. Rubber gloves must be worn when working with lime plaster.

(38) Baking bread.

(39) The dome of the oven was plastered in scratch coat and a tinted finishing lime plaster coat was applied to the base. This colour will fade a lot over the next few days.

 (40) A tinted finishing coat was also applied to the dome. Again, this colour with fade over time.

 Many foods and many meals have been cooked in the oven.... from quick cooks at very high heat to long slow cooking as the heat diminishes. The grass has grown back around the base and it no longer resembles a construction zone!

An Earth Oven is a great gathering point in the yard as well as being very functional. Hopefully some of you will be inspired to build your own.....

This oven was built in part based on the wealth of knowledge available in:
Kiko Denzer's  'Build Your Own Earth Oven' 2007
Adam Weismann's 'Using Natural Finishes' 2010

Jen & Ryan have now signed on for a hands on Cob Home building workshop in Oregon! That is to happen in August 2013. Ovens to houses in 12 months...it simply boggles the mind:)

WOW!!