Saturday, December 29, 2012

The Earth Oven...built by people, supervised by pets!

Imagine a functional back to the Earth Oven...in your own back yard. Now imagine that oven built from scratch by your own family. You have just imagined the wonderful Earth Oven in our back yard...and you could have one too:)



Jen & Ryan have been intrigued by cob construction for years. An oven would be the perfect introductory project!

Cob building is a project for warm summer days and evenings. August 2012 had perfect weather for cob construction.

As many will know cob is a material made from clay, sand and straw... all of which we had on hand. The proportions of each vary to best suit the  structure being built.  For the oven various mixtures were tested to get the best results. The test pucks now act as decorations and paper weights throughout our house!

If you follow these instructions step by step at the end you too will have your own Earth Oven.

What will you need?

  • yard space
  • good weather
  • clay type earth
  • sharp edged sand
  • straw, dog hair, sawdust
  • assorted empty bottles
  • water
  • weed whacker
  • card board cylinder forms
  • premixed cement
  • gravel
  • 3/4" ply
  • chicken wire
  • staple gun
  • level
  • news paper
  • piece of 2x4 or  equivalent
  • dowl for poking holes
  • fire bricks
  • insulating bricks
  • buckets
  • wheel barrow
  • shovel
  • tarp
  • wood scraps, metal scraps
  • lime plaster
  • tint for the plaster
  • rubber gloves
  • old clothes
  • matches and wood for your fire
  • time and energy plus patience!


Step by Step Oven Construction




(1)The tube molds for the concrete foundation. Fill with concrete. Let set and peel off the card board.




(2) Once the oven’s site was decided on, a 3’6” round was marked out and a ring of earth was dug out to below the frost line (~1’) and packed with chips and dust. 11, 8” cement cylinders were poured and arranged to provide the foundation for the oven base.




(3) The cob mix consisted of 1 part clay rich soil which was collected from Bukeville, Richmond (aka Burkeville Readimix) and 1 part sharp sand. Straw and dog fur (we have plenty of that on hand) were added liberally to add grip and tensile strength to the mix.


(4) The cob was mixed on a tarp by stamping. Boots were worn as the Burkeville Readimix was from an urban site and had all varieties of rusty sharps and glass mixed throughout it, even after aggressive sifting. This proved to be a great workout with sore legs the following day!

To step back a bit... the dirt and sand were mixed with straw. The straw had been put in a 30 litre garbage pail and chopped in suitable lengths with a weed whacker. Once this was done, all was mixed on the tarp and water added. The mixture was stomped. The the edges of the tarp were folded inward (kind of like kneading dough) and the mass was stomped again. This process and the addition of water was repeated until a well mixed and workable consistency was achieved.



(5) It rains a lot in Vancouver and the ground is often wet. Having a base acts as a moisture barrier plus it brings the oven to a comfortable working height. Use your imagination and make a base that pleases you. The base of this oven was built using a glass bottle/cob mosaic on top of cement posts. Bases are traditionally solid but we wanted ours to be open to serve as a heated dog house when the oven was fired.... or for those poor souls without a dog it can be used for wood storage:)

Thus so far... the ground is cleared, a circular trench is dug, gravel is put in the trench and tamped down, the cardboard forms are filled with cement creating 11 cement posts which are carefully arranged around the gravel trench with an opening left for access into the base. Once these are placed cob is build up on the cement posts. Bottles of various colours and shapes were laid amongst the cob. This gives a decorative stained glass effect to the project. It was necessary to consume a lot of different beers and beverages to get the required bottles!




(6) The wall grew quite quickly and was checked periodically with a level to ensure it was level in both the horizontal and vertical planes. The gap in the wall will eventually become the arched entranceway to the base but for now it is being left alone so that the wall proper can lock up and provide support to the soon-to-be arch. The walls were built by taking handfulls of cob, forming them into loaves and splatting them down on the previous level. Shaping and sculpting was all done my hand. Yes, you will get very dirty... but it all washes off!







(7) When the base got to the height that felt right a platform was required for the oven itself. A 4’  diameter perfect round was cut from ¾” plywood. Reclaimed chicken wire from the last summer’s fence repair was stapled liberally to the underside of the ply round and around the edge to provide a mechanism for the ply round to lock down onto the cob wall.





(8) Chicken wire was also stapled to the upper edge of the ply round. The arch is slowly taking shape below.





(9) A cob wall was built up around the edge of the ply round to provide a well in the center to enclose the insulating layer below the oven.





(10) Once the cob edge wall was finished a layer of dry sand was spread into the centre well. We have now created a cob "doughnut" with decorative bottle placement and a dry sand layer above the plywood base. The "blue beer" had great bottle colours but no one liked the beer :( This acts as insulation from the oven above.




(11) Empty beer bottles were then placed over the sand layer and were then buried in more dry sand. This provides an insulating layer that the fire bricks sit on and prevents excessive heat loss from the oven through the base.





(12) The centre of the plywood round was carefully marked out and dense fire bricks were arranged on the surface of the sand ... starting from the centre and working outward toward the periphery. Each brick was accurately levelled and pressed tightly against each of its neighbours to provide a perfectly smooth, even surface with no edges on which a pizza peel could get caught while sliding it in and out of the oven. This is the cooking surface of the oven so it must be perfectly level and smooth.





(13) Once the bricks were leveled, 4 porous insulating (non heat retaining) fire bricks were placed at the front to provide an entrance shelf into the oven. The ornament that was sculpted on the rim was not only decorative but provided a support for the front brick shelf. The shelf was locked in on the sides by little blocks of cob.



 (14) The largest possible circle was drawn in chalk on to the bricks. This circle represents in the inner area of the oven. The circle is centered to align with the center of the plywood base. The supporting blocks for the shelf are clearly visible in this photo.


(15) A layer of wet newspaper was placed over the bricks and moist sand was poured onto the paper. The paper’s function was to prevent sand from working its way between the bricks and unsettling them. Gradually more sand was added as a semi-sphere was sculpted to the size of the chalk circle. Underneath the arch continues to slowly take shape.


(16) The sand form continued to take shape. For this oven, the diameter of the sand dome, which represents the inner area of the oven, was 82cm, the height of the dome was therefore sculpted to 41cm. 




(17) Once the shape of the dome was achieved it was smoothed out using wet hands and by rocking a 2x4 board over its surface. Since this is the inner shape of the oven it was important that its shape and texture be as perfect as possible.


(18) The dome was covered in wet newspaper in preparation for cobbing. The purpose of the paper is to prevent the cob from sticking to the sand ... if that happens the inner dome will have loose sand that will fall on the food and make a mess of things.


(19) The fire cobbing begins. This layer of cob is on the inside of the oven and will be exposed to the fire inside. As such, a different blend of cob was used, known as fire cob. It consists of ~5 parts sharp sand to 1 part Burkeville Readimix without any straw or fur. It was gritty and required a fair amount of force to get a good pack.


(20) The fire cob layer grows.





(21) Once the sand dome was completely covered in fire cob, the cob was worked smooth using a 2x4 board that was rocked over the surface repeatedly to get a nice finish. The fire cob was left to set for a couple of days and then the door was cut out. The height of the door was 63% the height of the inner sand dome. This ratio has been shown to provide the optimal airflow to promote a good burn without allowing excessive heat escape. We built a thick wooden door out of scrap wood that was cut to plug the door opening tightly to trap the oven heat in once it had been fired to temperature. Some will add a chimney to the dome. For our oven these dimensions, along with a fire door, have worked well and a chimney has not been necessary.

The tarp was put up to protect from direct sun, so that the cob dried slowly and evenly. It also protects against Vancouver's rain onslaught. 

The arch continues to slowly take shape.




(22) An arch was also built around the doorway with firecob to protect the insulation layer of cob (coming up) from the flames when the oven was fired.




(23) Finally, when the firecob had firmed up sufficiently (~2 weeks) the sand was scraped out to hollow out the interior.



 (24) Once all the sand was removed, a fire was lit in the oven to speed up the drying of the fire cob and to burn off any left over newspaper from the inside.




(25) The fire cob is drying.





(26) Dry!



(27) Our first attempt at pizza. The oven got incredibly hot! It broke our oven thermometer that had a max temp of 700F! The first pizza wasn’t pretty but it was awfully delicious.





(28) Our first attempt at bread in the oven. Delicious!



(29) Getting ready to put on the insulation layer. The oven got extremely hot with the fire cob layer but it lost it’s heat quickly once the flame was removed. The insulation layer is designed to help slow the rate of the heat loss. Our mix was composed of 1 part Burkeville Readimix to 1 part sharp sand. We added a liberal amount of straw, fur, and sawdust shavings from the woodshop to create air pockets within the mix. Unlike the firecob layer which was designed to be very dense, this insulation layer was designed to be very porous to trap and keep the heat. Once this was in place the oven would still be warm the morning following a burn.




(30) The insulation layer is complete. Holes were punched into it to provide a key for the plaster layer. Ryan is firing the oven to dry out the insulation layer. He is holding our first pizza peel made from a piece of scrap metal.




(31) Another attempt at pizza. This time the oven held its heat for a good long time. When the flames were removed it kept a temperature of 350F for over 5 hours and was still warm the following morning. The arch is finally nearing completion.


 (32) The pizza is cooking and blue beer bottles are being collected for the next cob project. A pizza cooks in less than 5 minutes.


(33) Dogs, and human friends alike, love pizza nights!


 (34) We decided that our oven needed some nicer pizza peels. These ones were crafted by Jen & Ryan ....made from wood they collected from around the city a few summers ago. The one of the left is made from maple, cherry, purple heart and black walnut (left over from other projects). The handle is from a piece of yew. The one on the right is made of cherry from a family friend’s tree (it was cut down when one of their dogs got a cherry pit lodged in its lung!) and black walnut.



(35) A firing door was made out of a piece of scrap steel. The handle was carved out of a piece of lumber left over from Ben’s cat run (that is a blog in it's own right). This door made for a hotter burn and helped direct the smoke upwards, rather than out towards people gathered around the oven. The arch is now complete. If made freeform the arch is best built slowly to prevent sagging... each layer is firm before the next is added.




(36) Tidying up the arch.



 (37) Lime plaster was mixed with sand and applied to the base as a scratch coat. Rubber gloves must be worn when working with lime plaster.


(38) Baking bread.


(39) The dome of the oven was plastered in scratch coat and a tinted finishing lime plaster coat was applied to the base. This colour will fade a lot over the next few days.



 (40) A tinted finishing coat was also applied to the dome. Again, this colour with fade over time.






 Many foods and many meals have been cooked in the oven.... from quick cooks at very high heat to long slow cooking as the heat diminishes. The grass has grown back around the base and it no longer resembles a construction zone!

An Earth Oven is a great gathering point in the yard as well as being very functional. Hopefully some of you will be inspired to build your own.....

This oven was built in part based on the wealth of knowledge available in:
Kiko Denzer's  'Build Your Own Earth Oven' 2007
Adam Weismann's 'Using Natural Finishes' 2010


Jen & Ryan have now signed on for a hands on Cob Home building workshop in Oregon! That is to happen in August 2013. Ovens to houses in 12 months...it simply boggles the mind:)





WOW!!













Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Pumpkin Ice Bites for Dogs


Want to give your dog a safe and delicious holiday treat? Check out our blog for this great recipe that's so easy to make!


PUMPKIN ICE BITES FOR DOGS

Want your dog to have a delicious and safe holiday treat? Here's a simple recipe you can make at home:

Blend 1 cup of canned pumpkin with 1 cup of plain non-fat yogurt and freeze in an ice tray. Dogs can be given these one cube at a time (outside, because they can be a little messy for carpet!). 

This mixture can also be stuffed into a Kong or rubber stuffable toy and frozen. That will allow hours of dog entertainment!

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Car Engines and Cats



As the days start getting shorter and cooler, your outside cat, as well as other cats in the neighborhood, may be looking for warm places to spend the night. A common place for cats to go for warmth is under the hood of cars, because engines retain their warmth long after the car has been driven. If a car is started under these circumstances, great injury, or even death, can occur for the cat. Protect your outside cat, and your neighbors’ cats, by knocking on the hood every morning before you start your car. 

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Holiday Safety Tips

‘Tis the season for friends, family and holiday feasts—but also for possible distress for our animal companions. Pets won’t be so thankful if they munch on undercooked turkey or a pet-unfriendly floral arrangement, or if they stumble upon an unattended alcoholic drink. Check out the following tips for a fulfilling holiday that your pets can enjoy, too. Although our Canadian Thanksgiving is now long past in USA it is just on the horizon. The tips listed below apply to all holiday events where normal routines are put aside for festivities and celebrations!

Talkin’ Turkey

If you decide to feed your pet a little nibble of turkey, make sure it’s boneless and well-cooked. Don't offer her raw or undercooked turkey, which may contain salmonella bacteria.

Sage Advice

Sage can make your turkey stuffing taste delish, but it and many other herbs contain essential oils and resins that can cause gastrointestinal upset and central nervous system depression to pets if eaten in large quantities. Cats are especially sensitive to the effects of certain essential oils.

No Bread Dough

Don't spoil your pet’s holiday by giving him raw bread dough. According to ASPCA experts, when raw bread dough is ingested, an animal's body heat causes the dough to rise in his stomach. As it expands, the pet may experience vomiting, severe abdominal pain and bloating, which could become a life-threatening emergency, requiring surgery.

Don't Let Them Eat Cake

If you’re baking up Thanksgiving cakes, be sure your pets keep their noses out of the batter, especially if it includes raw eggs—they could contain salmonella bacteria that may lead to food poisoning.

Too Much of a Good Thing

A few small boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, don't allow your pets to overindulge, as they could wind up with a case of stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis.

In fact, it’s best keep pets on their regular diets during the holidays.

A Feast Fit for a Kong

While the humans are chowing down, give your cat and dog their own little feast. Offer them Nylabones or made-for-pet chew bones. Or stuff their usual dinner—perhaps with a few added tidbits of turkey, vegetables (try sweet potato or green beans) and dribbles of gravy—inside a Kong toy. They’ll be happily occupied for awhile, working hard to extract their dinner from the toy.


Originally published by the ASPCA.










Monday, October 29, 2012

Are you and your loved ones at risk???

Several years ago I was presented with a bunny named "Sally" that had what looked like a huge growth on her inner thigh...it was larger than her head!!

When the following directive came across my desk I thought of her:

"Dear Doctor,

Recently, in the national news there has been information regarding mounting evidence that the tapeworm Echinococcus multilocularis (E. multi) may be spreading amongst coyote and fox populations in Canada. This has some researchers concerned about spill-over of this infection into dog and human populations where there is urban-wildlife interface.

Some types of E. multi infections can cause serious health problems in human and animal populations (e.g. cyst formation), however the risks for such an infection are low - only a handful of cases in humans have been diagnosed in North America.

Risks can be minimized by:

  • Proper handling of dog and wildlife feces and proper handwashing
  • Controlling rodents and preventing pets from catching and eating rodents
  • Preventing dogs from eating wildlife feces
  • Routine deworming should kill E. multilocularis and if a dog is at a particularly high risk, more regular testing and treatment may be indicated
This information is being distributed by the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association for the benefit of all veterinarians in Canada."

"Sally" had not read that the risk was low...she was infected with E. multi.  Fortunately for her the huge, multi loculated cyst had formed under her skin and not in her abdomen, chest or brain! If it had developed in these tissues she would not have survived. We opened the cyst and removed the tapeworm. It was sent to a laboratory for identification and was confirmed to be E.multi. Once the offending metacestode and brood capsules (cyst) was removed the cyst resolved and "Sally" went on to live to old age.


How did "Sally" get the cyst? 

She lived in doors but on nice days would go about the garden under the watchful eye of her owner. She loved to nibble on grass and other naturally growing green treats. However, when "Sally" and her owner were not about the garden was also frequented by coyotes. It is assumed that the grass was contaminated with tapeworm eggs that were deposited with coyote feces.

Just the other day my husband mentioned that he had never seen so many coyotes on our property. He commented that they must like blackberries as the feces were riddled with blackberry seeds. It is a concern as even if you pick up the visible fecal matter the eggs are tiny and can cling to the vegetation or get into the soil. Our dogs chase off coyotes every day! They are at risk!

There are many different types of tapeworms that can cause serious health problems, including death, in man and animals. E.multi is one of the nastier ones.

The tapeworm life cycle involves a stage where it resides in the intestinal tract and a stage where it encysts in other tissues. With E. multi the problem isn't the worm living in the intestinal tract. The adult worms live in the intestinal tract of the "definitive host"which, in North America, are primarily foxes and coyotes and as now realized occasionally domestic dogs. Most of the time definitive hosts live in balance with the tapeworm parasite that resides in their intestines. The worms mature and produce huge numbers of tiny eggs that pass out of the host in the stool. Small animals, such as rodents (mice, voles etc) ...and the"Sallys"in our lives...may ingest the eggs either from nibbling on the feces or the vegetation contaminated by them. The parasite then develops into a cyst within the body of the "intermediate host". If the infected small animal is eaten by a fox, coyote or potentially a dog then the parasite continues its life cycle and becomes a new adult tapeworm in the intestinal tract of the "definitive host".

Rodents, dogs, rabbits, humans  etc as "intermediate hosts" with cysts
When it comes to humans, and some other domestic species (your pet), the health problem is what happens when tapeworm eggs are ingested. As in rodents (as a natural host they usually develop smaller cysts that do not kill them) the ingested eggs hatch and the immature parasites migrate through the intestinal wall. From here they can spread to virtually any place in the body!! They develop cysts which can be huge (as in "Sally's " case) and, unlike her , if they are situated in major organs the result can catastrophic if not deadly. Treatment is difficult, prolonged and expensive. Death rates are high!



The relationship between dogs and E. multi is quite interesting. The can act as "definitive hosts" passing eggs in the stool and they can act as "intermediate hosts" developing large tissue cysts which can be devastating.This has been seen and written up in both BC and Alberta. It is not someone else's concern...it is our concern.

The increase in urban coyote populations putting coyotes and dogs into close proximity increases the risk of pet dogs becoming infected as both "definitive hosts", where the shedding of eggs can impact other animals including humans, and "intermediate hosts" where the pet may become extremely compromised and die. Animals sick with cysts will not be shedding eggs as the cyst stage is not within the intestines.

Fecal egg counts (parasite exams) may detect definitive hosts that are shedding eggs but advanced imaging techniques will likely be require to positively identify an intermediate host with a tapeworm cyst.

To lower the risk for yourself and your pets:
  1. use gloves and wash your hands after cleaning up fecal matter
  2. don't eat poop! Watch that young children, and your pets, don't eat poop
  3. avoid situations where you pet may eat a wild rodent
  4. have routine parasite exams done on your pets feces
  5. worm your pet for tapeworms on a regular basis
  6. allow your veterinarian to do imaging studies if it felt advisable
  7. don't encourage coyotes, rodents and other parasite harbouring animals onto your property

Monday, September 17, 2012

Flea ,Tick and Heartworm products...some can kill if used incorrectly!

It is 8 PM on a lovely summer evening and a neighbour knocks on the door with a sick kitty in their arms. They thought their kitty had had a seizure in the afternoon. She continues to twitch and walks like she is intoxicated. On initial inspection it is noticed that she has a "greasy" area on the back of her neck. We ask the neighbour if she has applied a flea or tick product to this area. The answer is yes ...in the morning just before the kitty had the seizure!! When asked what product she used she was uncertain, however she knew she had used it before on her dogs and they were all fine.

This kitty was suffering from permethrin toxicity.

Permethrin is in many flea and tick products and it is highly toxic to cats. Without medical intervention they can die.

Permethrin products are labelled for use in dogs not cats. However people all to frequently do not read product labels.

At WBVC we try to avoid permethrin based products. Tick products with permethrins are sold only to households that do not have cats. Clients are warned that permethrins can kill cats.



Below is information about many parasite prevention products. Not all are approved for use in Canada.

FLEA PRODUCT CHARTS:

Confused about flea protection? The best advice is to consult with your veterinarian!


Table 1:Flea killing ingredient;
Flea sterilizing or additional ingredients;
For dogs or cats;
Youngest age or size approved for use;
Waterproof or water resistant

Table 2:Approved for pregnancy or lactation (nursing);
How long until maximum effect against  fleas is reached;
Other parasites killed, controlled or repelled;
How often applied or administered
Table 3:Oral or Topical, Prescription drug, non-prescription drug or insecticide;
LD50 (lethal dose to 50% of the population)
Table 4:Year first available in U.S.; Manufacturer,
Manufacturer’s website;
Additional cautions




TABLE 1
Flea Killing Ingredient
Flea Sterilizing or
Additional Ingredients
For Dogs
or Cats
Youngest Age or Size
Approved For Use
Waterproof or
Water Resistant?
Comfortis,
AcuGuard*
Spinosad
none
Dog
14 weeks; at least 5 lbs
Waterproof
Trifexis
Spinosad
Milbemycin (for add’l parasites)
Dogs
8 weeks; at least 5 lbs
Waterproof
Assurity
Spinetoram
none
Cats
8 weeks
Water Resistant

Vectra 3D,

SimpleGuard 3*,

FirstShield Trio*
Dinotefuran &
Permethrin
Pyriproxifen (flea sterilizer)
Dog
7 weeks;
at least 2.5 lbs
Water Resistant

Vectra for Cats,

SimpleGuard for Cats*, FirstShield for Cats*
Dinotefuran
Pyriproxifen (flea sterilizer)
Cats
8 weeks
Water Resistant
Revolution
Selamectin
none
Dog or Cat
6 weeks puppies
8 weeks kittens
Waterproof
Advantage II
Imidacloprid
Pyriproxifen (flea sterilizer)
Dog or Cat
7 weeks puppies
8 weeks kittens
Waterproof
K9Advantix II
Imidacloprid &
Permethrin
Pyriproxifen (flea sterilizer)
Dog
7 weeks
Waterproof

Advantage Multi

also called Advocate
Imidacloprid
Moxidectin
(for additional parasites)
Dog or Cat
7 weeks puppies
9 weeks kittens
Waterproof

Frontline

Fiproguard, PetArmor, EasySpot (cats)

Parastar (dogs)
Fipronil
none
Dog or Cat
8 weeks
Waterproof

Frontline Plus,

Fiproguard Plus, PetArmor Plus
Fipronil
Methoprene (flea sterilizer)
Dog or Cat
8 weeks
Waterproof
Program
none
Lufenuron(flea sterilizer)
Dog or Cat
4 weeks
Waterproof
Sentinel
none
Lufenuron (flea sterilizer) &
Milbemycin (for add’l parasites)
Dog
4 weeks; at least 2 lbs
Waterproof
Capstar
Nitenpyram
none
Dog or Cat
4 weeks; at least 2 lbs
Waterproof




TABLE 2
Approved for Pregnancy and Lactation (nursing)
How Long Until Maximum Effect Against Fleas Is Reached?
Other Parasites Killed, Controlled or Repelled
How Often Applied or Administered?
Comfortis,
AcuGuard*
Manufacturer recommends against use but not specifically labeled against
100% Fleas Dead
in 4 Hours
none
Monthly
Trifexis
Manufacturer recommends against use but not specifically labeled against
100% Fleas Dead in 4 Hours
Hookworms, Roundworms, Whipworms, Heartworm
Monthly
Assurity
Manufacturer recommends consulting with veterinarian first
98 - 100% Fleas Dead in
12 Hours
none
Monthly

Vectra 3D,

SimpleGuard 3*,

FirstShield Trio*
No
96% of Fleas Dead
in 6 Hours
Kills Ticks; Repels Flies
and Mosquitos
Monthly

Vectra for Cats,

SimpleGuard for Cats*, FirstShield for Cats*
No
98% of Fleas Dead
in 6 Hours
none
Monthly
Revolution
Yes
42 Hours to Zero Fleas
Dogs: Ticks (but is slow kill and disease transmission can still occur), Ear mites,
Sarcoptic mange mites & Heartworm Larvae
Cats: Round worms, Ear mites, Hookworm &Heartworm Larvae
Monthly
Advantage II
Manufacturer recommends consulting with veterinarian first
98% of Pre-Existing Fleas Dead in 12 Hours; Then New Fleas in 2 Hours
none
Monthly
K9Advantix II
No
98% of Fleas Dead
in 12 Hours
Kills Ticks; Repels Flies
and Mosquitos
Monthly

Advantage Multi

also called Advocate
No
98% of Fleas Dead
in 12 Hours
Dogs: Whipworms, Hookworms, Roundworms & Heartworm
Cats: Roundworms,Ear mites, Hookworms & Heartworm
Monthly

Frontline,

Fiproguard, PetArmor

EasySpot (cats)
Parastar (dogs)
Topspot Yes;
Spray No
24 Hrs to Translocate, then
4-18 Hours to Kill Fleas
Kills Ticks & Lice
Monthly

Frontline Plus,

Fiproguard Plus, PetArmor Plus
Yes
24 Hrs to Translocate, then
4-18 Hrs to Kill Fleas and
24-48 Hours to Kill Ticks
Kills Ticks & Lice
Monthly
Program
Yes
Peak activity at 6 Hours
none
Monthly for oral; Every 6 Months for Injectable
Sentinel
Individual ingredients Yes, but combination not approved
Peak activity at 6 Hours
Monthly
Capstar
Yes
Maximum Effect in 4 Hours
none
As Needed or Daily (no lasting activity)




TABLE 3
Oral or Topical?
Prescription Drug,
Non-Prescription Drug
or Insectcide
Lethal Dose to 50% of the Population
(the higher the number, the safer the product)
[What is LD50?]
Comfortis,
AcuGuard*
Oral (Chewable)
Prescription Drug
>3,000 mg/kg in rats; >2.000 mg/kg in rabbits
(translates to over 30 times recommended dose)
Trifexis
Oral (Chewable)
Prescription Drug
Spinosad: >3,000 mg/kg in rats; >2.000 mg/kg in rabbits
Milbemycin LD50 information unavailable
Symptoms of tremors and incoordination result at 19 times recommended dose
Assurity
Topical
Insecticide
Dermal and Oral LD50 in rats > 5,000 mg/kg
Vectra 3D,
SimpleGuard 3*,
FirstShield Trio*
Topical
Insecticide
>2,400 mg/kg in rats for Dinotefuran,
>4,000 mg/kg in rats for topical Permethrin
Vectra for Cats,
SimpleGuard for Cats*, FirstShield for Cats*
Topical
Insecticide
>2,400 mg/kg in rats for Dinotefuran
Revolution
Applied Topically, but rapidly absorbed through skin
Prescription Drug
>1,600 mg/kg in rats
Advantage II
Topical
Insecticide
Dermal Dose: >5,000 mg/kg in rats
Orally: 450 mg/kg in rats
K9Advantix II
Topical
Insecticide
Imidacloprid Dermal Dose: >5,000 mg/kg in rats
Imidacloprid Orally: 450 mg/kg in rats
>4,000 mg/kg in rats for Permethrin
Advantage Multialso called Advocate
Topical
Prescription Drug
Imidacloprid Dermal Dose: >5,000 mg/kg in rats
Imidacloprid Orally: 450 mg/kg in rats
>2,000 mg/kg in rabbits for Moxidectin
Frontline,
Fiproguard, PetArmor
EasySpot (cats)
Parastar (dogs)
Topical Topspot or Spray
Insecticide
Fipronil Dermal Dose: >5,000 mg/kg in rats
Fipronil Orally: 750 mg/kg in rats
Frontline Plus,
Fiproguard Plus, PetArmor Plus
Topical
Insecticide
Fipronil Dermal Dose: >5,000 mg/kg in rats
Fipronil Orally: 750 mg/kg in rats
Methoprene Orally: >34,600 in rats (virtually non-toxic)
Program
Oral; or
Injectable for Cats only
Over the Counter Drug
Orally: > 2,000 mg/kg in rats
Sentinel
Oral
Prescription Drug
Lufenuron Orally: > 2,000 mg/kg in rats
Milbemycin LD50 information unavailable
Symptoms of tremors and incoordination result at 19 times recommended dose
Capstar
Oral
Over the Counter Drug
Orally: 1,575 mg/kg in rats




TABLE 4
Year First Made Available in U.S.
Manufacturer
Manufacturer Website
Additional Cautions
Comfortis,
AcuGuard*
2007
Elanco
Should not be used in dogs with known seizure disorders
Trifexis
2011
Elanco
Puppies less than 14 weeks of age may experience a higher rate of vomiting
Assurity
2011
Elanco
none
Vectra 3D,
SimpleGuard 3*,
FirstShield Trio*
2007
Summit
none
Vectra for Cats,
SimpleGuard for Cats*, FirstShield for Cats*
2008
Summit
none
Revolution
2000
Pfizer
Pets should test negative for Heartworm before use
Advantage II
1996
Bayer
none
K9Advantix II
2003
Bayer
Do not use in cats
(cats are sensitive to Permethrin)
Advantage Multialso called Advocate
2007
Bayer
Pets should test negative for Heartworm before use
Frontline,
Fiproguard, PetArmor
EasySpot (cats)
Parastar (dogs)
1996 (Frontline)
2011 (all others)
Merial
Sentry
FidoPharm
none
Frontline Plus,
Fiproguard Plus, PetArmor Plus
2000
Merial
Sentry
FidoPharm
none
Program
1994
Novartis
Give with food
Sentinel
1997
Novartis
Give with food; Pets should test negative for Heartworm before use
Capstar
2000
Novartis
none






  • As of spring 2011, Pfzir has discontinued the manufacture of Promeris (active ingredients: mitraz and metaflumizone)




  • * VCA Animal Hospitals and Banfield Pet Hospitals market some products under their own hospital private label

    This chart compares many flea control products to assist you in determining which is right for your situation. These products are available at licensed veterinary hospitals. Over the counter products are not included in these charts. As there are 14 different products compared in 16 different categories, the information is divided between  4 separate tables.


    TICK PRODUCT CHARTS:


    American Dog Tick 2Brown Dog Tick singleAdult Female Lone Star Tickblackleggd tick
    American Dog Tick,
    Vector of: Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
    Brown Dog Tick,
    Vector of: Ehrlichiosis
    Lone Star Tick (note the "star" on the belly),
    Vector of: Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
    Deer Tick or Black-legged tick,
    Vector of: Lyme Disease, and Anaplasmosis 

    Confused about tick protection? The best advice is to consult your veterinarian!
    This chart compares the currently available tick control products to assist you in determining which is right for your situation. These are products made by reputable major pharmaceutical companies and most are available only through licensed veterinarians. Because there are 13 different products compared in 14 different categories, we have split up the information into 3 separate tables

    Table 1:Tick killing ingredient;
     Format (topical, collar or spray);
    For dogs or cats;
    Approved against which ticks
    Youngest age or size approved for use;
    How long one application lasts
    Table 2:Waterproof or water resistant;
    Approved for pregnancy or lactation (nursing);
    How long until maximum effect against ticks is reached;
    Other parasites killed, controlled or repelled;
    Other active ingredients
    Table 3:Prescription drug or insecticide;
    LD50 (lethal dose to 50% of the population);
    Manufacturer and product website;
    Additional cautions


    TABLE 1
    Tick Killing Ingredient
    Format
    For dogs
    or cats?
    Approved against which ticks
    Youngest Age Approved
    How long One Application Lasts
    K9Advantix
    Permethrin
    Topical
    Dogs only
    all shown above
    7 weeks
    1 month
    Revolution
    Selamectin
    Topical
    Feline product available but not labeled against ticks
    American Dog Tick only
    6 weeks
    1 month
    Scalibor Collar
    Deltamethrin
    Collar
    Dogs only
    Brown Dog Tick, American Dog Tick, and Deer Ticks
    12 weeks
    6 months
    Preventic Collar
    Amitraz
    Collar
    Dogs only
    all shown above
    12 weeks
    up to 90 days
    Frontline,
    Fiproguard, PetArmor, EasySpot (cats),
    Parastar (dogs)
    Fipronil
    Topical or spray
    Dogs and Cats
    all shown above
    8 weeks
    1 month
    Vectra 3D,
    SimpleGuard 3*,
    FirstShield Trio*
    Permethrin
    Topical
    Dogs only (feline product does not include a tick ingredient)
    all shown above
    7 weeks
    and 2.5 lbs
    1 month
    Certifect
    Fipronil and Amitraz
    Topical
    Dogs only
    all shown above
    8 weeks
    and 5 lbs
    1 month















    TABLE 2
    Waterproof or
    water resistant?
    Approved for Pregnancy and Lactation?
    Time to Reach Maximum Effect
    Other parasites controlled or repelled:
    Other active ingredients:
    K9Advantix
    water resistant
    No
    98% dead within 48 hours
    fleas, flies, mosquitoes
    imidocloprid
    Revolution
    water proof
    Yes
    48 hours
    ear mites, fleas, sarcoptic mange mites, heartworm
    none
    Scalibor Collar
    water resistant (remove collar for bathing)
    Not specifically labeled against, veterinary consultation recommended
    2 - 3 weeks
    fleas killed, flies and mosquitoes repelled
    none
    Preventic Collar
    water resistant (remove collar for bathing)
    Not specifically labeled against, veterinary consultation recommended
    100% dead in less than 24 hours
    none
    none
    Frontline,
    Fiproguard, PetArmor, EasySpot(cats),
    Parastar(dogs)
    water proof
    Yes for topspot, no for spray
    24 - 48 hours
    fleas
    methoprene
    in Frontline Plus,
    Fiproguard Plus
    and PetArmor Plus
    Vectra 3DSimpleGuard 3*,
    FirstShield Trio*
    water resistant
    No
    98% dead within 48 hours
    fleas, flies, mosquitoes
    dinotefuran, pyriproxifen (former kills fleas, latter sterilizes them until former product kills them)
    Certifect
    water resistant
    Yes
    18 hours
    fleas
    methoprene


















    TABLE 3
    Prescription Drug or Insecticide?
    Toxicity/LD 50
    (what is LD 50?)
    Manufacturer & product web site
    Additional Cautions
    K9Advantix
    insecticide
    Imidacloprid Dermal Dose:
    >5,000 mg/kg in rats
    Imidacloprid Orally: 450 mg/kg in rats
    >4,000 mg/kg in rats for Permethrin
    Bayer
    Permethrin is toxic to cats, use feline product only for cats. Avoid cat/dog snuggling.
    Revolution
    prescription drug
    >1,600 mg/kg in rats
    Pfizer
    Dog should test negative for heartworm before using
    Scalibor Collar
    insecticide
    oral LD 50 for dogs is 300 mg/kg,
    the dermal LD 50 in the rat is
    greater than 2,940 mg/kg
    Merck
    Deltamethrin is toxic to cats. Avoid cat/dog snuggling.
    Preventic Collar
    insecticide
    > 2,000 mg/kg in rats for Amitraz
    Virbac
    Amitraz is associated with an assortment of drug interactions, check with your vet. Also, collar is toxic if swallowed.
    Frontline,
    Fiproguard,PetArmor, EasySpot(cats),
    Parastar (dogs)
    insecticide
    Fipronil Dermal Dose:
    >5,000 mg/kg in rats
    Fipronil Orally: 750 mg/kg in rats
    Methoprene Orally: >34,600 in rats (virtually non-toxic)
    none
    Vectra 3DSimpleGuard 3*,
    FirstShield Trio*
    insecticide
    >2,400 mg/kg in rats for Dinotefuran,
    >4,000 mg/kg in rats for topical Permethrin
    Summit
    Permethrin is toxic to cats, use feline product only for cats. Avoid cat/dog snuggling.
    Certifect
    insecticide
    > 2,000 mg/kg in rats for Amitraz
    Fipronil Dermal Dose:
    >5,000 mg/kg in rats
    Fipronil Orally: 750 mg/kg in rats
    Merial
    Amitraz is associated with an assortment of drug interactions


















    As of spring 2011, Pfizer has discontinued the manufacture of Promeris (active ingredients: amitraz and metaflumizone)
    * VCA Animal Hospitals and Banfield Pet Hospitals market some products under their own hospital private label


    HEARTWORM PREVENTION CHARTS:

    Confused about Heartworm prevention options? The best advice is to consult your veterinarian!
    These two charts compare current heartworm preventive products side by side to assist you in determining which is right for your situation.


    For
    Dogs or Cats
    Heartworm Preventing Ingredient
    Other Ingredients for Control of Other Parasites
    Other Parasites Controlled
    Mode of Application
    Youngest Age to Start Using
    Heartgard
    for Dogs
    Dogs
    Ivermectin
    None
    None
    oral
    6 weeks
    Heartgard Plus
    Iverhart Plus
    Iverhart Max
    Triheart Plus
    Pet Trust Plus
    Dogs
    Ivermectin
    Pyrantel pamoate
    Iverhart Max also
    has Praziquantal
    Hookworms, Roundworms
    Iverhart Max also covers Tapeworms
    oral
    6 weeks
    Heartgard
    for Cats
    Cats
    Ivermectin
    None
    Hookworms
    oral
    6 weeks
    Interceptor
    Dogs
    and Cats
    Milbemycin Oxime
    None
    Hookworms, Roundworms, Whipworms
    oral
    4 weeks
    for puppies
    6 weeks
    for kittens
    Sentinel
    Sentinel Spectrum
    Dogs
    Milbemycin Oxime
    Lufenuron
    Sentinel Spectrum also has Praziquantal
    Hookworms, Roundworms, Whipworms, sterilizes Fleas
    Sentinel Spectrum also covers Tapeworms
    oral
    4 weeks
    Revolution
    Dogs
    and Cats
    Selamectin
    None
    For Dogs: Fleas, Ticks, Ear mites, Sarcoptic mange mites
    For Cats:  Fleas, Ear mites, Hookworms, Roundworms.
    topical
    6 weeks
    for puppies
    8 weeks
    for kittens
    Advantage Multi
    Dogs
    and Cats
    Moxidectin
    Imidocloprid
    For Dogs: Fleas, Ear mites, Hookworms, Roundworms, Whipworms
    For Cats: Fleas, Ear mites, Roundworms, Hookworms
    topical
    7 weeks
    for puppies
    9 weeks
    for kittens
    Proheart6
    Dogs
    Moxidectin
    None
    Hookworms
    injectable
    6 months
    (and no older than 7 years)
    Trifexis
    Dogs
    Milbemycin Oxime
    Spinosad
    Fleas, Hookworms, Roundworms, Whipworms
    oral
    8 weeks




    How Often Used
    Approved for Pregnancy and Lactation?
    Water-proof?
    Safe to Give to Heartworm Positive Animal?
    Manufacturer Website
    Heartgard
    for Dogs
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    yes
    10 mg/kg in rats orally according to MSDS sheet for Parade Equine Gel
    Heartgard Plus
    Iverhart Plus
    Triheart Plus
    Pet Trust Plus
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    yes
    10 mg/kg in rats orally for ivermectin; >690 mg/kg in dogs orally for Pyrantel Pamoate according to The Elephant Formulary by Mikota and Plumb
    Heartgard
    for Cats
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    yes
    10 mg/kg in rats orally
    Interceptor
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    In most cases yes but if microfilariae numbers are high then no
    LD50 information unavailable

    Symptoms of tremors and incoordination result at 19 times recommended dose
    Sentinel
    Sentinel Spectrum
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    In most cases yes but if microfilariae numbers are high then no
    LD50 information unavailable

    Symptoms of tremors and incoordination result at 19 times recommended dose
    Revolution
    monthly
    yes
    yes
    yes
    >1600 mg/kg in the rat orally
    Advantage Multi
    monthly
    no
    no
    yes
    Moxidectin: 106 mg/kg orally;
    Imidocloprid: 450 mg/kg in the rat orally
    Proheart6
    every 6 months
    yes
    yes
    No, in fact owner must agree to
    pre-treatment labwork including heartworm testing
    263 mg/kg in the rat when given by injection (the dose used therapeutically is 0.17mg/kg)
    Trifexis
    monthly
    Manufactuer cautions use, says to discuss with your veterinarian
    yes
    In most cases yes but if microfilariae numbers are high then no
    Milbemycin Oxime: LD50 information unavailable  Spinosad: >3,000 mg/kg in rats; >2,000 mg/kg in rabbits (translates to over 30 times recommended dose)


    Novartis products are temporarily unavailable from the manufacturer. At this time WBVC most frequently dispenses Revolution as a broad spectrum parasite control product. It covers adult and immature fleas, lice, most mites and over time ticks plus heartworm, roundworms, whipworm and hookworm. For more rapid tick control Preventick collars or K9Advantix are alternative options. Advantage and Program (with or without Capstar) are suitable options for flea control.

    The information in these charts is subject to change. For all parasite control choices we advise you consult with your veterinarian.


    6/2011